Islandia Grabo's Blog

January 11:  So we did set out at 4am from Lake Worth Inlet to travel the sixty miles across to West End, Grand Bahama Island.  As we went through the inlet we counted about 15 other boats going across.  Seas were supposed to be less than 3 feet and winds 10 knots.  Of course not!  Eight hours of rock and roll with winds steady at 17+ and seas 4 – 7 feet on the beam.

But we made it!

Docked at Old Bahama Bay Marina.  As we walked over to the Customs Office we noticed a bit of a rainbow.  Checking into the Bahamas is such a pleasure!  Courteous agents and no hassles about anything.  We should have filled the forward cabin with beer, wine and coffee.

Scenes of the grounds of the Marina and condominiums.

January 12:  Bob and fellow boater Hugh Grant (yes, that’s his name – he says he’s the original and better looking) trying to figure out why our starboard engine slowed down half way through the crossing.  I actually suggested he change the fuel filter.  2 points for me, that turned out to be the solution.

Weathered in for a day so I amused myself with doodle art.

Finished product.

Decided to continue on with creating blanks for the grandkids to color when they arrive in February (or possibly a few adults I know…).

January 14:  We left West End on the 13th and had a pucker factor of 10+ getting through Indian Rock Pass to enter the Little Bahama Bank (you have to go through a narrow cut between unmarked rocks with basically white water raging beside you).  Once through, the seas were calm – but it was a very gray day so no subject material for pictures.  Anchored off Great Sale Cay for the night.  Met some folks on a sailboat (Paradise 9) whose engine had quit.  Bob determined they had an air lock in the fuel line but didn’t have the right tools to fix it.  Fortunately they were able to sail to Green Turtle Cay the next day.  Took a mechanic two days to fix their problem. On the 14th we had an annoying beam roll for about 3 of the 6 hours to Green Turtle Cay, but no drama.

This 55+foot sailboat passed us!  He was doing 9 – 10 knots….

and then he sailed right off the horizon.

Too much of a beam roll to sit in the captain’s chair.  Fortunately Otto (our autohelm) did all the work.  Here’s Bob on the upswing…

and then on the downswing.

Gotta love the name of this rock…Center of the World!

But it looks like a caterpillar!

Happy to be in Green Turtle Cay before sunset.

So two boats down was this chartered catamaran with blow up dolls on it! It was part of a set for a reality TV show being produced by Bravo Elite TV (Bucket Lust?).  There were all kinds of actors/actresses dressing up in pirate outfits and skimpy bathing suits  – all being followed by an elaborate film crew.

From our stern we could see some of the actors/actresses between shooting scenes.  Quite amusing while we awaited a weather window for our final hurdle (Whale Cay Pass) to get to Marsh Harbour in central Abacos (our destination for the winter months).

January 15:  We rented a golf cart for the day and went around the island to check out all the beaches.  Loved the handy signage…

so we kept going!

 

Scenes of the various beaches around the island.  Bob found a captain’s hat on the last one!

January 16:  Took the dinghy over to nearby No Name Cay to see the wild pigs (and chickens/roosters).  This was apparently a failed attempt to raise pigs for meat so they were just left on the island.  A local group fund raises to keep them fed.  Have to admit I found some of the larger females a bit intimidating.

But it was fun to check them out.

Heading back to Green Turtle we saw this sting ray.

Took the dinghy over to Gilliam Beach at the south end of Green Turtle Cay.

Looking for shells can be addicting.

The beach borders a protected area for nesting birds. Didn’t see any there….

but we did see these parrots on our way back into White Sound where we were docked.

We were told these parrots were pets that were released when their owner died – about 10 years ago!  Not sure what type of parrots they are.  The native parrots in the Abacos are basically all green except for their red heads.

January 17:  Still not going anywhere so we walked to the beach at the northern end of the island.

A display of all the stuff that winds up on the shore.

Cool street to live on.

Walked over to the Bluff House Beach Bar (Tipsy Turtle).

Looking at the Sea of Abaco, it seems quite calm.

Walking back to our marina.

January 18:  How we spent most evenings – in the Green Turtle Club discussing when are we ever going to get through the “Whale??”

January 19 – Yes!  Let’s go for it!

Whale Cay in the background – the end of the challenge is in sight.  What makes this passage challenging is that the Atlantic Ocean funnels through a narrow passage into the Sea of Abaco.  And of course the rocks are unmarked.  If the current and wind direction oppose each other too much a “rage” forms that even intimidates freighters. So basically wind and current have to line up.  We had 7 foot seas but with 10 second intervals,  it was doable.

Our friends on Hush A Bye look like they are being swallowed up by one of the ocean swells.

One of the last reefs to get by.

Once back in the Sea of Abaco it was smooth sailing.  Tied up at Harbour View Marina by lunch time.

Our home base for the next three months…from here we’ll visit the various islands in the central to southern Sea of Abaco.  Phew!  No more hurdles for awhile!

After spending about a week anchored in Manatee Pocket near my sister Deb’s house we took the intracoastal (ICW) south to Lake Worth (West Palm Beach area).  We opted not to go out the Jupiter Inlet.

This guy wasn’t fishing but obviously something he had on board was attractive to seagulls.

Interesting family outing.  Can’t believe how calm the dog was.

Entering one of the anchorages in Lake Worth – a place of contrasts:  derelict boats and mega boats getting a face lift.

New Year’s Eve Day outing with Deb, Riva and Tom. Took the ICW north a bit and had fun looking at…

magnificent banyan trees…

colorful statues…

and homes for sale.

Back at the marina we had to squeeze into a pretty narrow dockage against a cross current.

But it certainly wasn’t as tricky as turning a cruise ship around in a narrow channel near very shallow water!

New Year’s Eve Moon – followed by some fireworks later on.  Didn’t get to see the actual Super Moon on the first because it was too cloudy. Happy 2018 Everyone!

January 1 – Beautiful day to begin with, went on the outside to travel south to Fort Lauderdale. Going by Lighthouse Point near Pompano (where Riva and Tom live).

Looks of boaters and para-gliders out in the ocean.  Looks like fun.

Fort Lauderdale Beach from the ocean side.

Back into the ICW in the very busy Port of Fort Lauderdale.

Iconic scenes on Fort Lauderdale Beach.

While the north was being pummeled with snow, ice and record low wind chills, we had our own form of miserable weather.

Back at our marina (the Swimming Hall of Fame Marina) there was an unusual 60 foot inflatable boat!

Headed back north on January 5th.  This part of the ICW is lined with mega mansions and mega yachts.

Going by Pompano Beach/Lighthouse Point from the inside.

Anchored in Lake Boca Raton for the night.  Riva (and her friend Stephanie) picked me up for a wedding tour.  Here’s the hotel where the Rehearsal Dinner will take place and where the guests will stay.

Sneak peak at the exquisite wedding venue at the Addison.

Riva in front of the wedding night hotel.

Jan. 7.  On the move again.  This mansion is still decked out for Christmas.

Whimsical mermaids.

This segment of the ICW has a million bridges on timed schedules.  Makes for an interesting day of trying to time them just right.

King of Norway’s place?

King Kong’s hang out.

Looks like this bridge should lead to Disney World.

As we went by West Palm I noticed this turret off in the distance – maybe Mar-A-Lago?

Coming back into Lake Worth with strong North winds.  At first we thought this Mega Yacht was loose in the anchorage….

Turns out it was being towed into a marina.  Have to hand it to the two tow operators (one forward, one aft to keep it from drifting into the other boats – at this point the boat is perpendicular to the wind).  They did an amazing job of what looked to be threading a needle.

So now it’s January 10th and we’re still awaiting a weather window to head over to the Bahamas.  This current barrage of storms between us and Grand Bahama Island is supposed to blow through tonight with calmer seas predicted for tomorrow.  So we’ll see…..

Dec. 23:  Artsy photo for the day – a dew covered web against a blue boat cushion.

Foggy mornings seem to be the norm.

Oscar the osprey wakes us up every morning.

Fortunately the fog burns up pretty quickly.  The current in this anchorage is pretty squirrelly, everyone is facing a different direction!

Dec. 24 : No fog this morning!  Looking forward to our wake crossing later this afternoon.

Nearby family (sister Deb, friend Jim, nephew, girlfriend, niece and fiancee) arrive and gather on the foredeck.  Love their Christmas clothing!

Red boat icon on the chart plotter approaches Marker 240 where the OWW crosses the Atlantic ICW.  This adventure started nearly 16,000 miles ago on 9/11/11 when we left Clayton, NY and went down to Lake Worth  and over to the Bahamas and back to Clayton.  We repeated this trip again in 2013-2014 with an additional mini loop (Clayton – Montreal – Ottawa – Kingston – Clayton) in 2016.  Then on June 20, 2017 we started the western segment of The Great Loop.  And now here we are, closing the Loop.

Our Christmas wish was to celebrate the crossing with family so I guess you can say we do believe in Santa Claus!

Celebrating with a bit of bubbly.

Went out into the ocean via the St. Lucie Inlet for a pleasant afternoon of leisurely cruising with a stop for swimming.

Back at anchor we celebrated Christmas.  Just had to turn on the fireplace for that down home upstate NY feel. Really great day!

Dec. 25:  Christmas morning!  Merry Christmas everyone.  And so we end one chapter of our travels and start a new segment – off to the Bahamas in a week or so, over to the Chesapeake in the Spring,  visiting home/St. Lawrence River for the summer (via car), then back to Florida  – and then who knows?  At this point forward since I’ve over-photographed the Bahamas and the Atlantic ICW, I will post a monthly update as to where we are.  Thanks to all of you who have followed my blog.  Wishing you a happy, healthy New Year!!!

Dec.19:  Got a delayed start to the day awaiting the tide to come up so we could exit the narrow inlet to the Port Sanibel Marina.  The first part of the Okeechobee Waterway (OWW) is busy with marinas and manatee slow down areas.  Bob loved this marina we passed by because it advertised a “Drive In Boat Wash.”  (I can see our daughters rolling their eyes).

The first of the locks is only a two foot rise.  The OWW has a different system of locking – no valves, they just crack the door open a bit!

Even though its just 2 feet, there was still quite a bit of surge.  For fellow boaters:  position yourself mid lock and hold on tight to the ropes!

Passed by several farms.

Got as far as LaBelle.  There are better marinas after this bridge but since we didn’t require any amenities for the night we stopped at this River Motel Dock.  Just enough room for us between two liveaboards.  We needed converters to plug into their 110 system.  BTW, Bob and I passed over this bridge several times last spring when we visited my cousin in her RV just up the road from here.

Enjoyed a nice sunset and pleasant visit with the folks on the liveaboard sailboat ahead of us.

December 20:  FOG!

 

Lots of fog photo-ops along the way.  Heading into the next lock, at least it was visible!

Preening eagle through the haze.

Finally the sun burned through the fog – much better!

Sunflakes!

Boat storage facility.  A good place to keep your boat.

Per lock master, this is a controlled sugar cane field burn.

Our first alligator sighting turned out to be two alligators!

OK this part of the OWW was a little dull, but at least you could steam along to Clewiston.

At this point  – Clewiston – you can turn 90 degrees to the south to go through a one foot lock into Clewiston, go straight (west) to go along the Rim Route of the OWW or…

turn 90 degrees to the north (and then east) to go across Lake Okeechobee.  We opted for Clewiston since the next available marina about 30 miles away and they didn’t have room for transients.

Narrow fairway from the lock to Roland Martin’s Marina.  It’s actually advised to turn around after exiting the lock and back into the docking area.  We were able to turn around just ahead of the dock the next morning without a problem.

Typical mileage signage – I was surprised to see NYC being only 1050 miles away.

Handy weather sign.  Probably more accurate than most of the weather forecasts we’ve seen.

Impressive display inside the nearby gift/clothing store.  This marina offers also offers a Tiki Bar with fairly decent bar food, showers and laundry.  Otherwise, not much else to see/do.  We were quite content with the Tiki Bar.

Nearby iguana sunning himself.

Dec. 21:  Left early as usual into a bright beautiful day….

Until the fog set in about 30 minutes later.  The Radar definitely paid for itself today.  You can barely see the sailboat passing us (just to the left of the center of the horizon).

This boat was a little more visible.  A third boat passed by – but we never saw it – only on Radar.  Scary!

Leaving the Port Mayaca Lock which we barely saw and entering the OWW St. Lucie canal.

Looking back at the fog bank.

Power eagle.

Immature tree eagle.

And then just like that – no more fog! Another long stretch of no slow downs.

Going by the narrow inlet to Indiantown, another popular place to leave your boat.

Awaiting the green light for the St. Lucie Lock.  This lock drops you 14 feet.  Hang on to those ropes as they crack the door open!

Storage marina for the big boys.

I’ve been on several portions of I-95, but this is the first time I’ve gone under the highway.

Christmas decorations – hard to believe Christmas is just a few days away!

Approaching the end of the 145 mile long OWW there are several slow down areas and beautiful homes.

Approaching the last hurdle to this segment of our journey – the blue Roosevelt Bridge and nearby rusty Railroad Bridge.  This bridge connects Jensen Beach with Stuart and Port St. Lucie.  The Roosevelt Bridge opens on demand  – as long as the RR bridge is open.

Just as we were about to hail the bridge tender the RR bridge went down – had to wait 30 minutes for the train to arrive and then cross.  In the meantime we noticed the nearby Sunset Marina was selling diesel for $2.58 – that’s a good price!

Finally – the bridges opened.  At this point we are only 7 miles away from crossing our wake.  We decided to stop short however and we exited the OWW a mile short of where the OWW ends at the St. Lucie Inlet and crosses the Atlantic ICW at approximately MM 897.

To our delight my sister Deb and her man friend Jim greeted us at the opening to nearby Manatee Pocket (where Jim keeps his boat).  It was great fun to have a welcoming escort to our anchorage for the night (and the upcoming days).

Dec. 22:  On shore with Deb and Jim and Jim’s Harley (and me reflected on the oil pan cover). So sadly/happily we are just about at the end of our Great Loop Adventure.  One more short chapter to post as we plan to cross our wake on Dec. 24th.

 

So promptly at noon on Thursday, Dec. 14, 2017, we cast off the lines in Carrabelle and started “The Great Bend” crossing.  We have lots of technology on board but in case it all crashes we also use a paper chart to plot our course.  From dock to dock we would travel 150 nautical miles.

We left the comfort of the intracoastal waterway along Florida’s panhandle with Mother Ocean behind us ….

and the wide open Gulf ahead of us. Calm seas with a somewhat annoying ocean roll on our beam, but minimal winds for the first 10 hours.

At sunset we were treated to a dolphin performance by a pod of 10 (not captured on film unfortunately).  At about 10 pm the winds and seas really kicked up (not predicted) but it wasn’t untenable.

Every hour or two we put our position on the chart to make sure we knew where we were and that we hadn’t strayed too far from the course line.  Bob and I took turns at the helm with two hour watches starting at 8pm.

Dec. 15:  At 6am we entered the beginning of the west Florida intracoastal just outside of Tarpon Springs, but it was too dark to proceed any further in the narrow channel.  We dropped anchor, started the generator and had a cup of coffee while awaiting the sun to rise.

Seemed like a different day as we entered the winding Anclote River leading to Tarpon Springs. After docking we took a very long nap!

Dec. 16:  After giving Islandia a well needed cleaning inside and out, I ventured into Tarpon Springs where their theme seems to be decorated bicycles.

This sponge diver told me he was sitting in the sun to warm up after a morning of sponge diving.

Whimsical mural.

I stumbled upon the exact sponge boat pictured on our “Placemat of Life.”  So cool – only one more picture to go (Florida’s East Coast Intracoastal – bottom right hand picture) before we cross our wake and complete the Loop.

Later, life long friends Paul and Celinda who live 10 miles away came over to visit.  Enjoyed a very nice visit and dinner with them at Capt’n Jacks.  (And sadly, we said goodbye to our friends on Mother Ocean – until we meet again….)

Dec. 17:  Going by colorful Clearwater Beach.

These tourists were treated to quite a dolphin show.  Several times all three dolphins leapt out in unison.

We checked the weather and it looked like smooth sailing out in the Gulf so we exited the intracoastal at Johns Pass.  Zoomed along for about 20 miles…

and then re-entered the waterway through the Egmont Channel.  Went by the Don Cesare Hotel in St. Petersburg.  A million years ago we went spinnaker flying with Bob’s brother Ray off that beach.

Looking back at the Skyway Bridge.

Going by Anna Maria Island – went to a wonderful wedding there last year.

Hmmm…where should be anchor tonight?  How ’bout here – where X marks the spot?  A wide open expanse off the intracoastal channel.  Not a normal type of anchorage for us as we usually seek protected harbors.  But since there were only light variable winds predicted for the night, we set down the anchor.

Downtown Sarasota was our backyard for the night.

Orange sunset in the front yard.

Dec. 18:  When I first woke up and didn’t have my glasses on (I’m quite nearsighted) for about 2 seconds I thought the sun was rising in the west! What?

Turns out the sun was shining directly on this high rise (but not the others!).

Weather prediction was again calling for flat seas so we went out nearby New Pass.  Guidebook said there were buoys to help us get out the inlet.  Not so.  Had to get into the dinghy to sound out a channel for Islandia.  The Garmin in the dinghy definitely paid for itself today! Bob followed me once I made a track out and back.  We went though a narrow pass with a 3 foot shoal to starboard and a 1 foot shoal to the port.  If there had been any seas at all we would have turned around.

After 40 plus miles going on the “outside” we re-entered the intracoastal at the Boca Grande Inlet near Cayo Costa Island.

Happy Bob …

and happy me – a birthday full of great weather and lots of dolphin sightings….

and bonus – stingrays leaping out of the water.

So in two days we traveled the full 150 miles of Florida’s west coast waterway.  Since we had explored this coastline a few years back when we chartered a Grand Banks with another couple and since we were hoping to spend Christmas on the east coast we pushed along. Here we are at the crossroads of “Mile 0” for the western intracoastal and the beginning of the 150 miles Okeechobee waterway.

For the night we meandered through mangrove islands to a small marina just outside of Fort Myers (Port Sanibel Marina). Pleasant end to a pleasant day.  Next up – our trek through Lake Okeechobee and then crossing our wake in Stuart.  So bittersweet to think that in just a few days we will conclude our Great Loop Adventure.

As predicted, the sun finally came out on Dec. 9!  It was in the 30s in the morning with brisk winds, but by the afternoon we were actually able to shed a few layers.  At Panama City’s waterfront is quite the 9-11–01 memorial.  Each bench commemorates the airplanes as well.

On our way to visit Paal and Betsy (M/V Eleanor) who have a condo in Panama City, we noticed this nearly sister ship to “Boomerang.”

M/V Eleanor conveniently docked next to Paal and Betsy’s condo.

With binoculars we could see our boat in the Panama City Municipal Marina.

Hoping to see the green flash, but not to be.

The annual Christmas Boat Parade commenced shortly after nightfall.  Rudolph the Red Nosed Reindeer led the parade.

One of the decorated sailboats.

Fireworks followed the parade.  Fabulous evening  – thanks again Paal and Betsy for your hospitality.

Dec. 10:  Another cold morning but sunny!  Passed this holiday decorated boat along the way to Apalachicola.

Pretty pelican beach.

Looking for alligators in Clark Creek, but too cold for them today!

Landed near a bar in Apalachicola.

We are finally back in Eastern Standard Time, but here in the bar it doesn’t matter since it’s always 5 O’clock.

Enjoying happy hour with Dennis and Jan (M/V Mother Ocean).

Jan dancing with a bar patron.

Dennis kicking it up with another bar patron (to New York, New York of course).

Talented local singers.

Dec. 11:  Bob and I took an extended walk around town.  This cemetery established in 1830 had a walking tour map to literally stroll through the history of the local community.

OK, what do Rob and Sherrie know that we don’t know?  Saw this in a family plot dating way back to birthdates in the late 1700s.  It will be interesting to know how their lives actually play out.

Walked by lots of beautiful homes. Loved seeing so may flowers as well.

Private pier ending at two blue chairs…

and a public pier ending in a fishing wharf.

This wall of poinsettias was filled with monarch butterflies…

as was this neighboring white flowered bush.  We literally saw hundreds of monarchs as we walked around town. A local woman out gardening said she had never seen so many monarchs land in Apalachicola before.  A new over wintering spot for them perhaps?

Live oaks reaching across the streets….

and houses…

and stop signs.

Going by the Gibson Inn which is apparently a landmark hotel in Apalachicola. We then ran into fellow loopers at the local brewery.  Another fun evening.

Going by the nautical themed city Christmas tree on our way back to the marina.

December 12:  Traveled 25 miles to Carrabelle which is where the north section of the Gulf Intracoastal Waterway ends. Not exactly a welcoming site as we entered the harbor, but further into the bay we found a very friendly town.

The Moorings Marina placed us next to our friends and right next to their Captain’s Lounge complete with bathrooms, showers, laundry, pool table, poker table, large screen TV and comfortable chairs.  Made waiting for the “weather window” to cross over to Tarpon Springs very nice. If all goes well, Bob and I will depart today (Dec 14) at around noon to make the overnight crossing of nearly 170 miles.  Fingers crossed!

Got home in time to celebrate our grandson Clark’s 2nd birthday.  Such a cutie and so fun to listen to his speech development.  Every day a new word or two.  Enjoyed his parents too! Our in-law apartment is perfect for visiting and impromptu baby sitting.

Drove to Maine to babysit our granddaughters while their parents celebrated their 10th wedding anniversary in Costa Rica.  Had to brush up on “get kids to school” skills, but we managed to do so with smiles.

 

Drove the girls back to Altamont where upon the cousins had a blast.

Then back to Maine after a wonderful week of celebrating Thanksgiving and early Christmases with family and friends.  Sophie and Josie helped put up a Christmas tree to surprise their parents.

Got back to Pensacola on Dec. 2 where reliable Gak the Harbor Heron greeted us rather loudly.

Beautiful day in downtown Pensacola under the “Umbrella Sky.”

Throughout downtown are decorated pelicans.

And other forms of artwork.

Enjoyed a beautiful sunset on Dec. 3.

And then the spectacular super moon.

Left Pensacola Shipyard on December 5 after 3 weeks.  For boaters in need of boat repair I would highly recommend this yard, along with Troendle Marine.  We had a potpourri of repairs done while we were home.  Wonderful service in a very tidy yard.

The dolphin escorts were fantastic.  A few of them followed us for miles.

Look Out Tower?  It wasn’t noted as anything on the charts.

The Emerald Coast is usually pretty, but we seem to be headed for a stretch of gloomy weather.

Destination for Dec.5  was Destin, Florida.  This marina with the skinny piers (some were only 10 feet long), charged $3.50 a foot!

We opted to anchor out (to the left).  Spent another enjoyable evening in the company of Dennis and Jan aboard Mother Ocean (although we did get soaked going to and fro in the dinghy).

Dec. 6:  Headed out to Panama City.  For 27 miles of the 60 mile trip is a canal referred to as the Grand Canyon.  Given it was in the low 50s with gusts up to 35mph, this “canyon” offered flat seas and minimal wind effect.

I renamed the canal the “Grand Sandyon.”

Looks like this will be my outdoor uniform for the next few days:  high 40s, low 30s, 100% chance of rain, winds 15-20.

So basically bleak for Dec. 7 and 8.

Good thing Steph got me these socks for Christmas!  Looking forward to some warmth and sunshine, hopefully tomorrow!

Lots of acts before the Blue Angels.  This is Chris Darnell in his Shockwave Jet Truck. He has set a record of 375 mph and in his act he races against one of the planes in the show.

Next up, the amazing father and daughter team Greg and Ashley Shelton.  Lotta guts to be a wing walker.  Go Ashley!

The Ken Rieder and Jon Thocker Redline Aerobatic Team:

 

Then the Geico Skytypers (as opposed to skywriting):

 

The very precise US Navy Parachute Team: Leap Frogs

Out on the Tarmac, I’m guessing this man is a Korean War Veteran.

A very well attended Air Show:

Photo credit to Dana – nice silly picture of me and another photo buddy.

And finally, the Blue Angels!!

Happy ending!!! On the way back to the marina we stopped at the famous Flora-Bama Bar.